The ten wines that stuck with me from 2019

Sebastien Riffault Sancerre Skeveldra 2011

Proof that "natural wine" can be excellent. Bizarre, but excellent. This was also proof that natural wine can age. So lively, good acidity, lots of apples in the aroma, honey, hay, flowers. Bold. Incidentally, it has nothing to do with Sancerre, except that's where it comes from. 

Filippi Vigne della Bra 2006

Speaking of minimal intervention, the men at Filippi know nothing better. In everything they do, the vineyard remains the starting point. Even the appellation has now been relegated to the back label. Vigne della Bra 2006 is a DOC Soave wine made from 60-year-old Garganega vines from the volcanic soils for which the region is famous. The wine is aged for an impressive 20 months on the lees. A mineral extravaganza. It reminded me of a vintage champagne. Insane.

Cota 45 Ube Miraflores

Make sherry great again. In early 2019, I embarked on my mission to put this divine drink in the spotlight. There was a reason for that: I had to write an essay about it. The Rise and Fall and Rise of Sherry as part of my training. This bottle is also technical Not sherry, because like the PX mentioned above, this wine isn't fortified. Like Luis (and his son Willy) Perez, Ramiro Ibáñez, the man behind Cota 45, is on the eve of the sherry revolution.

The Ube is a palomino fino wine from a single pago: Miraflores. Vines between 80 and 90 years old grow here at an average altitude of 50 to 60 meters above sea level. It's bottled a year after harvest, so we can't really call it "flor," but we can describe it with a vibrant minerality. And yes, it's a difficult word, but that's what you get. It's more savory than fruity and pairs perfectly with oysters.

I can't resist giving a shoutout to Bodegas Luis Perez, because this house also makes an unfortified palomino fino wine that actually belongs in my top 10: El Muelle de Olaso.

Want to know more about sherry? Find out more here >

Chateau d'Yquem 1995

In London. At BobBoBRicard, ordering a single glass of Yquem suddenly became possible. For forty euros, I could fulfill my dream. I didn't have to think about it for a moment. Hit me!

It was the first time I drank Château d'Yquem, and it was fantastic. Was it because I'd been praising this wine since the beginning of my wine career? Was it because we'd been wandering around in the rain for fifteen minutes looking for a nice bar? Was it because Yquem has one of the lowest yields (one glass per vine)? I think it all plays a role. It's beyond words. From dried apricot to honey and the most delicious orange marmalade you've ever tasted. The longest finish ever.

Jacquesson Champagne 734 and 735

The 700 series, according to its producers, is the opposite of a non-vintage wine, as is customary in Champagne. Jacquesson strives to make the best every year, and that doesn't go hand in hand with homogeneity. "We are winemakers," they say. "Terroir-driven. Every cuvée is different, because every year is different. We work with what nature gives us." This is at odds with the working methods of the Grandes Marques in Champagne, who do everything they can to release the same champagne every year. Currently, 734 and 735 are my two favorites , but that could easily be different next year ;-).

Chateau Musar White 2009

The red wines from Chateau Musar also deserve a spot on this list, but hey, choices. This year, I'm choosing the white wine from Chateau Musar because I'll never forget it. The 2009 was released this year. At Musar, they only release it when they consider it ready to drink. Not that you have to listen to them, because it can still be enjoyed for years after its release. Luckily, I had the chance to taste it. at Wijncafé Lefebvre in Utrecht.

So much happens in the glass that it's (once again) difficult to put into words. If I had to draw a comparison, I'd say: a dry Sauternes style with an oriental touch. Surprisingly creamy and fresh – a beautiful balance between the two. Aromas of nectarine, (dried) apricot, hazelnuts, white tea, pistachio, honey, and baklava. It even has a touch of tannin.

Dominio de Bibeo Ribeira Sacra 2015

Ribeira Sacra, the region no one has ever heard of. And that's a shame, so it deserves a spot here. It's located in Galicia, the region in northeastern Spain. Generally, a continental climate prevails here, with occasional fresh sea breezes. The Dominio do Bibei vineyards are situated at an average altitude of 670 meters. This ensures coolness and freshness in the wines. The soil consists of a thin topsoil that immediately transitions to rock. The vines have to work hard to survive. This gives the wines a purity that's undeniable. A vague concept, perhaps, until you taste it. Take note, because we'll be hearing a lot more about Mencía in the near future.