Noble Rot Edition 39

The belief that great wines embody place has always been at the heart of Noble Rot. With this issue's gloriously daftGary Taxali cover– a blissed-out barrel jockey teetering on the brink of a watery downfall – we pause to ask why location matters so much to what we drink. Not so long ago, you couldn't uncork a biodynamic Bobal without hearing that magic word:terroir.

But now, asAlice Feiringasks in this issue, has wine's favorite mantra lost some of its juice? Elsewhere,Marina O'Loughlinreflects on how setting shapes flavor, whileBouchon Racine's Henry Harrisremembers the recipes — and the tins of tripe still lingering in his kitchen — that carry him back to holidays past.

Also in Noble Rot 39's celebration of wine and food culture…

Angela Hartnett lunches with Danny Dyer– fresh from his BAFTA triumph – while tasting an array of bold, “deadliest” reds.Zadie Smithwrites about her favorite meal,Jay McInerneyconfesses his problem with Sauvignon Blanc, andKeira Knightleyextends last issue's lobster fixation with Menorca's classic caldereta de langosta.

ArtistsSarah LucasandMaggi Hamblingcompare 1995 Bollinger RD to Special Brew, and wax lyrical about Francis Bacon, the YBAs, and more at Noble Rot Lamb's Conduit Street — now celebrating its tenth birthday.

Dan KeelingprofilesGewürztraminerandCôte-Rôtie;Levi Daltonexplores wines that blur the boundary between red and rosé;Polly Russelltraces the history ofOddbins;Mark AndrewreappraisesBordeaux's “lost decade”andSimon J. WoolfuncoversPortugal's nearly forgottentalhatradition.

Jeremy Kingreflects onthe agony and the ecstasy of opening restaurantson the eve of relaunching Simpson's in the Strand;Jake Missingexamines how the restaurant industry's battle between analogue and digital is reaching boiling point; and recipes come courtesy ofSimon Hopkinson,Ed Wilson, andStephen Harris– among much more.