A wine lover in Alsace

Alsace, or Elzas in Dutch, can certainly be called a pioneer: it was the first wine region with a Wine Route . And what a route it is! You'll be amazed. It's beautiful. The picturesque villages, the verdant vineyards, the stunning scenery, and the excellent restaurants make it an ideal holiday destination.

But first: what kind of wine can you expect? Due to the variety of grapes, location, and terroir, you can't really call it a typical Alsace wine, but for me, the common denominator is the rich, fruity flavor found in all the wines. In most cases, these are varietal wines, that is, wines made from a single grape variety. The grape variety is listed on the bottle, but that doesn't really say much about the wine; for that, you have to delve into the terroir and the winemaker.

Alsace seems closer than it is. From Rotterdam, the trip takes about seven hours without stopping. A top tip: make a stop in Limburg and discover the local (or Belgian) wines.

Table of contents:

Wines
Wineries
Restaurants & wine bars
To sleep

Wines

During the first wine tasting of my life I was introduced to Gewurztraminer , one of the most aromatic grapes in the world. This experience inspired me to delve deeper into wine. Aromatic is the key word in Alsace. This applies not only to Gewurz, but also to Pinot Gris and Riesling. Four grape varieties are considered "noble grape varieties." Only* these grapes are permitted to be used to make Grand Cru wines:

Riesling – often in a dry version
Gewurztraminer – often with residual sweetness
Pinot gray – sometimes with residual sweetness
Muscat – usually in dry form

*France wouldn't be France if there wasn't another exception to the rule. The Zotzenburg vineyard is also allowed to use Grand Cru status for sylvaner. And also from Pinot Noir Nowadays a grand cru can be made.

Wineries

If you follow the Route des Vins d'Alsace, you can stop at the winery for a delicious tasting at any given time. The famous villages of Riquewihr, Ribeauvillé, and Kaysersberg are located along this route. We walked from our campsite in Kaysersberg to Riquewihr, tackling a considerable hill on the way there (we hadn't really researched the best route). It was a steep climb, but after a hearty lunch and a few tastings, we walked back along the vineyards. Fortunately, it was a bit less steep and incredibly beautiful.

Domains to visit:

Hugel in Riquewihr (rich style)
Marcel Deiss in Bergheim (the enfant terrible of Alsace, but nevertheless great wines)
Trimbach in Ribeauvillé (straight style)
Reveur's Vineyard (natural wine, a project by Mathieu Deiss, grandson of Marcel Deiss)
Zind-Humbrecht in Turckheim (Master of Wine, biodynamic, rich style)
Mark Tempé is another one you won't want to miss. Biodynamic, pure, terroir-like, and full of energy.

Please make an appointment in advance to avoid finding a closed door.

Restaurants & wine bars

And it's not just the wines that are good, the cuisine is also excellent. This is where sauerkraut (choucroute) originates and is the classic pairing with Riesling. You'll find flammkuchen on every street corner. It's best described as an Alsatian pizza. On a base of very thin bread dough, you can add a variety of toppings, such as crème fraîche, onion, and bacon. Go wild and order one with Munster cheese. Delicious with a glass of Gewürz. It makes a rather substantial meal, though.

Interesting detail: Alsace had 33 Michelin-starred restaurants in 2021. So you can eat well here!

The Brendelstub in Riquewihr for delicious flammkunchen
The Circle of Aromes In Colmar, a charming wine bar with surprising wines (including old vintages). The menu is limited, so make sure you've already eaten something or are going somewhere else to eat, but it's a great place for drinks. We do have one criticism, though. During our visit in 2025, we were served a wine with a clear wine flaw (vinegar stain). Undrinkable. We let the waiter know, who then stuck her nose in the glass and bluntly declared the wine was fine. Not okay.
Mademoiselle10 is a cute and cozy restaurant with a good wine list in Strasbourg
The hotel-restaurant is located in the old police station of Strasbourg Leonor . I haven't been there yet, but the stories are very positive.

To sleep

In Colmar you will find Hotel Quatorze , once a pharmacy, now a hotel. The rooms reminded me of The Lobby in Amsterdam.

Prefer a rural environment? Then check this gîte for a large five-bedroom house in Hunawihr, again a stone's throw from the producers mentioned above.

You can also go to Bergheim for a nice accommodation Nestled in the heart of the vineyards. Three bedrooms and a terrace overlooking the grapes. What more could you ask for?