Inside Chateau Lafite Rothschild

Jumping with joy, I'm standing in the kitchen on the day of my first field visit of 2023. We're going to the Lafite Rothschild. What a dream, gates I thought would always remain closed, but this was the day. I polish my work boots until they shine, pull my favorite pants out of the closet, and tie my hair in a neat ponytail. Of course, I want to look my best at a château like this.

Why all the fuss about yet another wine tour? Château Lafite Rothschild is one of the Big Five on Bordeaux's Left Bank. In 1855, a list was compiled of the top châteaux in the Médoc. We can thank our friend Napoleon for that—you know, the man from the history books. Or rather, the château owners should thank him. Since then, the Big Five have enjoyed unprecedented fame and sell their bottles for at least 500 euros a bottle. This means that we poor consumers will most likely never drink these wines. Unless, of course, you work in a wine restaurant or have deep pockets yourself.

Sommelier's dream

The sommelier's dream is to spot the Big Five and, ideally, visit and taste them. It's Wednesday, January 11, 2023, 9:00 a.m., when I cross the threshold of Lafite. We're greeted by the vineyard manager, Louis Caillard, the son of our teacher. Do you think there'll be room at the family table for Christmas? Louis tells us about the 122 hectares they cultivate. There's certainly no shortage of grapes. Lafite-Rothschild is in the middle of the three-year process to obtain organic certification, and they're also experimenting with biodynamics.

We chatted all morning about how they were gradually increasing the row width from 1 meter to 1.2 meters. About mechanization due to fears of staff shortages. About what it means to prune and grow the vines to a height of 80 cm instead of the standard 40 cm. And about what climate change means for a company like Lafite. Can we expect Touriga Nacional in this iconic blend in ten years? Louis firmly says no. Bordeaux remains Bordeaux, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and a Peu petit verdot . He's convinced that with different choices in the vineyard and technological developments in the future, they can safeguard these grape varieties. Meanwhile, we walk through enormous halls filled with agricultural equipment. Discussing everything, we walk through the barn with all the vineyard machinery. We pass color-coded equipment lockers for all eight (!) teams and rows of tractors. Where a 'normal' winery has one tractor per 15 hectares, they have two. That means a total of around 24 over-the-row tractors, 18 sprayers, and so on. So there won't be a lack of equipment; it's wonderful when money isn't an issue.

In the basement

At the wine cellar, we meet Olivier Bonneau, the recently appointed winemaker. He reminds me a bit of that annoying little boy at the back of the class. He has those sparkling, twinkling eyes and a mischievous look on his face that constantly makes you wonder what he's been up to.

Winemaking, that's what he's mainly been up to, in all corners of the world. What surprised me was that he was previously head winemaker at a huge cooperative. Not that Lafite, with its 122 hectares, is so small, but rather that he rose from mass production to the top of the world's most prestigious wine region. Not bad at all, a round of applause for Olivier! He tells me that it was precisely his experience at the cooperative that contributed to his appointment at Lafite. He was approached, and well, when Lafite comes knocking, you don't say no. With his years of experience, he plans to elevate Lafite to a higher and more consistent level.

A new winery is being built, and the entire infrastructure throughout the company needs to become much more efficient. Within the winemaking process, they're going to work more biodynamically, more environmentally friendly, and they're going to tackle the perennial Brett problem (learn more about brettanomyses ? Listen to the podcast "flawless" ). Management gives Olivier plenty of time for this, as he signed a 15-year contract.

Tasted: Lafite Rothschild 2002

And then the moment arrives. Generous as they are, two bottles of Lafite 2002 are ready for us. We taste in the aging cellar, which looks more like a sacred circular tomb. Amazing for the experience, less so for the analytical tasting. Yet, this is what I wrote down: WOW WOW WOW. Depth, smooth, grand yet small. What a loooooooooong time. Earthy yet with seductively ripe fruit. Layered. Mysterious. Lively. Energetic acidity. Velvety tannins. MEGA! I'm convinced this wine would have benefited from a carafe, and half a glass in the middle of a stuffy cellar is surely not the place to do it full justice. But still, what an experience!

Just recover

I need a moment to recover from all these impressions. We're back on the bus, and I realize how normal these people have actually remained. How wonderful to see that even if you're among the top, you take the time to "raise" a group of students. And the realization that the weather is uncontrollable, even if you're swimming in money. So, ultimately, Mother Nature decides everything.

Want to see more of Bordeaux?

• A look inside Le Pin
• Inside Chateau Mouton Rothschild