A wine fan in Piedmont and Barolo

Rolling hills, vineyards everywhere you look, and picturesque villages. Piedmont is a wine lover's dream. I've been there several times, but I'd never written about it before. That's about to change. Below, you'll find my favorite Piedmont wines and all sorts of great tips for a fantastic wine trip to this region.

TL;DR? No worries, these are the most important links.

Quick links: Restaurants | Hotels
👉 The Wines of Piemonte for all the ins and outs of the region.

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Wineries

Barolo is full of gems among wineries. While not all are equally eager to welcome visitors, most will welcome you with open arms. A top tip: send an email beforehand. That way, everyone knows what to expect.

Burlotto

I've never tasted such a refined Barolo. I think I grasped the essence of Nebbiolo here. We were guided by Fabio Alessandria, the fifth generation of the winery, who, along with his father, is responsible for the wines. Burlotto exudes tradition. Upon entering, we saw the enormous wooden barrels. If you get the chance to visit or taste this, definitely do it.

Hand-harvesting, 60 days of skin maceration, and fermentation in large open vats, foot-crushed—it doesn't get much more traditional than that, does it? I always associated this traditional winemaking method with rustic wines and wines that require extended bottle aging to reach their full potential. This wine is anything but rustic. It will undoubtedly improve with bottle aging, but it's already so refined now—we tasted 2018, that is.

Burlotto , Via V. Emanuele II 28, Verduno | available from Odile Hemmen

Giulia Negri

Giulia Negri, also known as "Barolo Girl" is a rising star in the Barolo wine region. After taking over the family estate at a young age, she has made a name for herself by revolutionizing the Barolo world with her unique approach to winemaking.

Negri is neither a traditionalist nor a modernist, as she uses both traditional and modern techniques to produce superb wines that are original, mineral, and elegant. Her vineyards, situated at a higher altitude than usual, are surrounded by forests where the famous white Alba truffle also thrives. In a word: sublime. The environment, the wines, and Giulia herself.

Giulia Negri , Borgata Castagni 35, La Morra | available at Wijnhandel de Lange

Giulia Negri

Burzi

Burzi is a small winery run by brother and sister Alberto and Caterina Burzi. While I spent summers working in a chip shop in Zeeland, here it's perfectly normal to pick grapes in your younger years. That gave young Alberto a taste for more, and in 2012 he started making his own wines. That's easier said than done in Barolo, where vineyards are few and far between.

Fortunately, the vineyards were already in the family, but until then his grandfather had sold the grapes to the cooperative Terre del Barolo, which he co-founded. And – minor detail – also to Roberto Voerzio, who used it to create his famous Barolo "Riserva Vecchie Viti Capalot e Brunate." That contract expired a few years ago, and since then, Alberto has kept the grapes himself. In 2018, his sister, Caterina, joined him to take care of all administrative and promotional activities.

Burzi , Via Cesare Balbo 6, Alba | available at zekvinos.nl

Vietti

Vietti was founded by two brothers, Mario and Carlo Vietti. Carlo had finished his studies and moved to Boston, where he met his wife, who happened to be from Serralunga d'Alba. Mario took charge of wine production, which wasn't easy, with phylloxera and the First World War raging.

Ultimately, Carlo decided to return to save the family business from ruin. He quickly became known locally as "that crazy American" because he took a different approach than most producers in the region. He focused exclusively on wine, particularly Nebbiolo. This was unusual, as Dolcetto and Barbera were priced higher at the time. He was far ahead of his time when he was the first in the region to start bottling his own wine, instead of selling the grapes to négociants.

Today, Vietti owns 34 hectares in Barolo (and much further afield, including the Langhe, Barberesco, Asti, and Colli Tortonesi). They have vineyards in 10 of Barolo's 11 cru villages, and it's a real treat to sample several of them side by side.

Vietti , Piazza V. Veneto 5, Castiglione Falletto | available at De Gouden Ton.

The Colombera

Nebbiolo isn't the only grape variety in Piedmont. There's more, and what you definitely shouldn't miss is Timorasso. Timorasso was threatened with extinction in the 1960s and 1970s with the arrival of international grape varieties like Chardonnay and Merlot, which are much easier to grow. Fortunately, several winemakers, including Elisa Semino of La Colombera, have taken this wonderful grape under their wing. Anyone who appreciates minerality (whatever it may be) should definitely give this one a try.

La Colombera , Strada Comunale per Vho 7, Tortona | available through Anfors

Pio Cesare

An impressive estate, established in 1881. Pio Cesare is the only producer in Alba with truly old, beautiful cellars. They have vineyards in both DOCG Barolo and DOCG Barbaresco. I was invited by Vinites to tour their estate. A quick glance at their website reveals that they also offer tours and tastings Monday through Friday.

Pio Cesare , Via C. Balbo 6, Alba | available through Vinites

Marziano Abbona

A producer I discovered years ago on a random terrace in Italy and have never forgotten. Luckily, it turned out that Wijnhandel Peeters in Rotterdam also sells it. Marziano Abbona's wines have recognizable labels featuring—usually—a bird.

The vineyards are spread throughout the Langhe, including Barolo, but the estate is located in Dogliani, a DOCG often overlooked when exploring Piedmont. Dogliani is known for its Dolcetto grape, and you'll definitely find that grape in the Marziano Abbona range. Along with Barolo, Langhe Nebbiolo, Barbera, Roero Arneis, and Favorita.

Marziano Abbona , Borgata San Luigi 40, Dogliani | available at Wijnhandel Peeters

👉 Book tip: The Wines of Piemonte for all the ins and outs of the region.

Restaurants

I love Italian food. Simple, yet so flavorful and pure. The last time I was there was November 2022. Unfortunately, 2022 wasn't a great year for truffles. We did try some, but we're not sure if they actually came from the region (truffles are also imported from places like Croatia).

Trattoria di Bivio, Cerretto

This was a tip from the owner of the accommodation ( Cascina Sant Eufemia , see below). Good food, truffle menu, and again, an extensive menu. We chose an older vintage (2007) from Produttori del Barbaresco, the Barbaresco cooperative. Surprisingly good and, of course, fantastic with the truffle.

Trattoria di Bivio , Cerretto

Vinoteca Centro Storico, Serralunga

A lovely wine bar with an extensive wine list. A wonderful place to relax. Lots of local wines, as well as good champagnes and Burgundies. Highly recommended.

Vinoteca Centro Storico , Serralunga

Bar la Terrazza da Renza

Bar la Terrazza da Renza is in the same village as Vietti, making it a great combination visit. Diagonally across from the terrace, you'll also find a wine shop; the owner has lunch at da Renza every day and drinks two bottles of Barolo every day. A wonderful life! The terrace is beautifully situated with views over the valley and its vineyards. While the food menu isn't extensive, it does have an extensive wine list.

Bar la Terrazza da Renza , Castiglione Falletto

Osteria More e Macine

This was a stroke of luck on the day we arrived. It was packed, but luckily, after a fifteen-minute wait, we found a spot among the wine boxes in the cellar. From vitello tonnato to ravioli with lavender, it was exactly what we needed. The wine list is also excellent.

Osteria More e Macine , La Morra

Trattoria La Coccinella

If I had to describe La Coccinella in one word, I'd say: classic. A bit stiff, perhaps, but you'll forget that once you take a bite of the Gnocchi di Patate e Nocciole Ripieni al Castelmagno al Burro e Timo (potato and hazelnut gnocchi with castelmagno cheese, served with melted butter). Carry me away. A very extensive wine list with old vintages. Skip the desserts; go for the friandises with your espresso.

Trattoria La Coccinella , Serravalle

Hotels

From hotels to campsites – Le Club is a versatile destination. As long as there's Barolo, you won't hear me complain.

Villa Beccaris, Monteforte d'Alba

I once received a great tip and saved it as a note in my phone: Villa Beccaris. A perfect base for a trip to the vineyards, but also a relaxing place to stay if you don't feel like venturing out. There's a restaurant, a sun deck, and a swimming pool. What's not to like?

Villa Beccaris , Monforte d'Alba

Cascina Sant Eufemia

A bit more budget-friendly, fully equipped, and beautifully situated: Cascina Sant Eufemia. No pool or sundeck, but they do make homemade hazelnut spread. On a clear day, you can see the Alps from the garden. They also make a number of wines. Lovely people!

Cascina Sant Eufemia , Sinio

Camping Viora, Paroldo

The most fantastic campsite ever—if you enjoy peace and quiet—is Camping Viora. There's room for a handful of tents or trailer tents. Caravans can't even access the grounds. There's nothing for children to do, so they're never around. It's quiet, the view is phenomenal, and you can simply switch off completely.

Camping Viora , Paroldo