A wine fan in Bilbao and San Sebastian

I wrote a blog about this before Wine in the Basque Country . In this blog post, I'll give you some tips for great bars and restaurants in Bilbao and San Sebastian. A little less about wine specifically, but certainly about gastronomy. Just as important.

All of Jelle's great tips are also in this google maps list , so you have the addresses at hand.

Bilbao

If you're in Bilbao, you'll definitely walk across the Zubizuri Bridge at least once. A unique bridge (it kind of resembles a miniature Erasmus bridge) that the city is still feuding with its designer. With just a little rain, the pedestrian bridge became incredibly slippery, and health insurers complained to the city that the bridge was going to cost too much for all the broken legs. The architect took no responsibility and refused any modifications, arguing that it would damage the unique design. Since then, the city has laid rubber mats over the bridge, and new disputes have arisen between the city and the architect (such as the connection of the bridge to another footpath: the architect doesn't allow it, which is why there's a gap of a few centimeters between the sections). Anyway, it's incredibly interesting. I'm not so keen on the high-end art at the Guggenheim, but I'm open to these kinds of trivia. Read up on it while you're there.

What I actually wanted to say is that if you walk down that bridge to the south, you will automatically come Capricho Be careful, because it's a rather unremarkable little cafe that you could easily walk right past. But: here I ate the very best tortilla I've ever had. Super creamy, a nice, generous slice, and—like practically everywhere in the Basque Country—inexpensive. Inside, there were some posters about tortilla championships. I have no idea what they're worth, but for me, this cafe really stood out. Incidentally, beware of the tortilla with red pepper, because according to my travel companion, it was truly... muy spicy . The waiter had already warned…

Pintxos bars are everywhere in the city. That's what the Basque Country is famous for, after all. And there's quite a difference between them. From a simple baguette with a dried-out salad to truly freshly prepared works of art. We're looking for the latter, of course, because the price difference between a fantastic pintxo and one from a cheap bar is often less than a euro. We're not going to bother with that. I have two tips, both located in the city's most beautiful square: Plaza Nueva in the old town .

Sorgínzulo It's tucked away in a corner of the square, but you'll recognize it easily by the hustle and bustle. It might take some getting used to, but that bustle also immediately defines the relaxed atmosphere of these great little bars. Despite the hard work, all the camareros are up for a laugh. Just go wild on the pintxos; we didn't miss out.

Are you ready for a bit of a refresh? Then walk to another corner of the square. There you'll find Antxoa Taberna . They specialize in, of course, anchovies. Deliciously refreshing, perhaps with an olive and/or a green pepper. Just as importantly, it pairs beautifully with a nice glass of Txakoli.

Not on the square, but elsewhere in the city you will find Restaurante Abando . Besides the already spectacularly stocked bar, we saw something special happening at the table next to us. Fresh scallops were being roasted tableside. No doubt: we needed that too. Very enjoyable and delicious, perhaps with a fuller-bodied white Rioja.

Once it's finally evening (evening in the sense of at least nine o'clock), you can definitely go for pintxos again, but Basque cuisine has also earned quite a few Michelin stars. I didn't try them all, unfortunately, but I went to Zortziko * the Daniel García And it was definitely worth it! We went for the eleven courses of typically Basque-inspired dishes. I thought the price of €120 for that menu was very fair, but what makes it even better: there's a fantastic wine list where you'd really have to spend more than €30-40 for a good bottle. Okay, I managed it anyway (who would pass up an €80 pint in a good restaurant?!), but it's far from necessary, and in my case, the wine itself often makes fine dining quite expensive. In that case, a menu like Zortziko's is truly fantastic! A small shout-out also to the Malkoa Single Vineyard Ondarrabi Zuri, which has been aged in oak. I'd never tasted that grape like that before!

Tip from Nadien: Cork in Bilbao. A fantastic wine bar, not exactly centrally located, but well worth the detour. I was blown away by the fantastic sherries from Luis Perez and Cota45, which are also available by the glass. I'll definitely go back. Jelle has become a regular there. This place is not to be missed!

And another tip for Michelin-star fans among us: Nerua at the Guggenheim. Just like at Zortziko, we found the prices reasonable here too. The eight-course menu costs €85, with the option to expand. The wine list isn't extensive, but we were thrilled with Bodegas Tradición. The only downside was the excruciating pace at which everything was served.

To sleep

Looking for the perfect place to stay in Bilbao or the surrounding area? Here are some hotel recommendations.

• Urgoiti Palace In Mungia, a fifteen-minute drive from Bilbao (€20 with an Uber). A wonderful hotel: spacious rooms, a balcony with a terrace so you can enjoy drinks in the evenings, a fresh and extensive breakfast, and excellent dining options.
• Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao was on our list, but at the last minute, it was a bit over our budget. A beautiful location with a view of the Guggenheim. The rooftop terrace is also accessible to non-hotel guests (great for breakfast!).

San Sebastian

San Sebastian. Perhaps even more so than Bilbao, you can stroll into San Sebastian's old town and be surprised by numerous pintxos bars. But even there, there's a real difference. I've definitely checked off more than ten, and these are my favorites.

The bar with – certainly in my opinion – the most unattractive name is Bar Sport . But fear not: it's not packed with football fans, and I don't think there wasn't even a sport being played on a television screen. That in itself is unique in Spain. This bar doesn't have young waitstaff, but only experienced men who work around each other in a kind of continuous dance in a bar that I've only ever seen quite full. A great atmosphere and truly good pintxos. I fell for the foie a la plancha. A bit off-putting perhaps, but so delicious.

It might be a bit boring, but it's also very convenient: right next to Bar Sport is Borda Berri . Also top-notch. And that bar immediately leads to a general tip: you're quickly tempted to choose from the delicious pintxos laid out on the counter. But almost every bar also has a chalkboard displaying small, freshly prepared dishes. Like the squid (txipirón a la plancha) that I had there. You absolutely must also try the grilled octopus (pulpo a la brasa).

Just outside the old center you will find Bodega Donostiarra Gros . Recommended by others, we had a fantastic version there. If you've only ever known pulpo to be tough, you've always been wrong. The tentacle came on a mashed potato with smoked paprika to enhance that delicious smoky flavor from the grill.

Last but not least: have you played all the bars and are they closing, but you're not done yet? Go for a nightcap at Konstituzio Plaza . There are a few more cafés on a beautiful square where the evening can last even longer. And if they close, there's another whisky bar elsewhere in the city. At least, it's called the Museo del Whisky, but whether there actually was a museum section: I don't actively remember it...

Have a good trip!
The CO2 emissions from our travels are offset.

More travel tips?

• A wine lover in the Basque Country (but then about the wine and the producers)
• A wine lover in Valladolid (just over 2.5 hours' drive from Bilbao and close to the vineyards of Rueda and Ribera del Duero)
• A wine fan in Jerez
• A wine fan in Bordeaux (only 2.5 hours drive from San Sebastian)