The forgotten grapes of Champagne

The members of Club des Vins are now trained to recite the three Champagne grapes at any given moment: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Until one of them gently but firmly points out to me that many more grapes are actually permitted in Champagne…

How does that work?

That's absolutely true. Besides the aforementioned grape varieties, Champagne can also be made from four others: Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. The forgotten grapes of Champagne. Well, have you ever ? All the Pinots in a Champagne.

Arbane

This is a rare white grape variety. Only 1 hectare is planted in France. The Champagne House Moutard still makes a 100% Arbane Champagne. So, it's essentially a Blanc des Blancs. We often associate that term with Chardonnay, but that's not necessarily the case.

Small knife

Also a white grape variety, it turns out to be a half-brother of Chardonnay. It's a cross between Gouais Blanc (one of the parents of our Char) and Savagnin. Once immensely popular, thanks to its good acidity, it lost out to the other three grapes, but is now gaining some ground.

Pinot Blanc

Well, we know that one, don't we? The golden oldie from Alsace, which you pair with asparagus. Not to be rude, but this grape isn't exactly fancy. They got it in Champagne too, so they call Pinot Blanc "blanc vrai" here. Clever. Champagne House Gerbais is also making a Champagne from 100% Pinot Blanc. I'm curious to see how it compares to a Crémant d'Alsace.

Crémant

In France, sparkling wine is produced in almost every region besides Champagne. Of course, they are not allowed to put Champagne on the bottle, so they have Crémant For real. Eight regions, from the Jura to the Loire, produce their own crémant. They follow the traditional Champagne method, but often use their own local grape varieties.

Pinot Gris

Wow, I really didn't see this coming: Pinot Gris in Champagne. Or rather, Fromenteau, as they call it here. When I think of the typical Alsace wine… Those are often full-bodied, sultry wines. Does that work in Champagne too? I have to try it sometime. It won't be easy, because Pinot Gris seems to be the most overlooked grape in Champagne. Let me know if you come across another one.

One of Le Club des Vins' readers has found a 100% Pinot Gris. The champagne is made by Derot-Delugny From Crouttes-sur-Marne. Unfortunately, they don't deliver to the Netherlands, but I'll pick up a box next time I go to Champagne.

Blends of the forgotten grapes of Champagne

There are a number of, often smaller, Champagne houses that make Champagnes from the forgotten grape varieties.

Perseval-Farge Les Goulats is made from arbane, petit meslies and fromenteau (pinot gris).
For sale via Disdonc.nl (please email me if it is no longer on the website, sometimes it is in stock).

Cépages d'Antan is made from pinot blanc, arbane, pinot meslier.
For sale at Brouzje Champagne for €78.50.

Champagne Laherte Frères – Les 7 is made from all seven grape varieties.
Available at Plus de Bulles for €60.95.

Also in Champagne Agrapart Complantée Extra Brut contains all grape varieties.
For sale at Wijnkoperij Platenburg for €68.95.

Champagne de Fleury Cepages Blancs Extra Brut 2009 This is also a beautiful wine, made from 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Blanc. Available at Wijnhandel Peeters for €59.95.

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