The mysterious verduno pelaverga

When we think of Piedmont, we immediately think of Nebbiolo. This red grape variety, grown on the rolling hills of Barolo and Barbaresco, is responsible for iconic Italian wines. But what if we mention that some of those hills are shared with another grape variety? Get to know verduno pelaverga , a native variety that has hidden itself until now.

In November 2022, I first encountered this grape variety while traveling through Piedmont. And I can only say it: I fell in love instantly. Verduno pelaverga is a red grape variety that displays somewhat similar aromas to Nebbiolo: intense red fruit (more strawberry than cherry), a hint of cinnamon, and a characteristic rose scent. It is sweeter and more approachable, even in its younger years, than Nebbiolo. The aroma profile is similar, as Neb , with high acidity but less intense tannins. A kind of Nebbiolo Light, but that sounds so irreverent. These are feather-light wines that also remind me of Trousseau from the Jura.

Nearly extinct

Verduno Pelaverga, officially Pelaverga Piccolo, is an indigenous grape variety from the municipality of Verduno, one of the 11 Barolo villages. It should not be confused with Pelaverga Grosso, a grape variety that is more widely planted, primarily around the village of Saluzzo in the province of Cuneo. The grape and bunch size of Grosso is—what's in the name—larger than Pelaverga Piccolo. This led to some wrangling among winemakers, which ultimately led to more regulations. And so, a DOC Verduno Pelaverga was created in 1995.

Producers

The DOC isn't large, with only 20 hectares of Pelaverga planted and only about 12 winemakers producing a wine. This is quite remarkable, considering these vineyards are also located in the Barolo zone, where they could just as easily have been planting Nebbiolo. Below, I'll highlight three of them.

Comm GM Burlotto

Comm GM Burlotto, one of the most famous (and best – if I may say so) producers in Verduno, makes not only superb Barolos but also a wine from Verduno Pelaverga. It was my first Verduno Pelaverga, and I fell in love immediately. They have a total of 17 hectares of vineyards, 3 of which are planted with Pelaverga. Most of it is in Verduno, but a small portion is in Cadía, near Roddi.

My tasting notes for the Comm GM Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga 2021 read: pale red in color, pomegranate, cranberry, currants, rosehip, a touch of pepper, a touch of earthiness, lively acidity, and tannins that give the wine bite and structure. Or, as Fabio Alessandria, the winemaker and great-grandson of the founder, put it: “It has its personality”.

A number of Comm GM Burlotto wines are available at Odile Hemmen in Rotterdam.

Fratelli Alessandria

Fratelli Alessandria is one of the producers who has always believed in the grape and its provenance. They grow Pelaverga exclusively in the higher-altitude vineyards of Verduno, in the northwest of the Barolo zone. “Rhubarb, rose hips, wet earth and crushed leaves. And then on the palate, it's mouth-watering, zesty and medium-bodied with the texture of sheared velvet. It's a wine I can drink to remind me of home in Alaska just as much as to daydream of Italy ,” writes Elaine Chukan Brown on Jancis Robinson about the Fratelli Alessandria Speziale Pelaverga 2020.

This wine can be ordered from Enoteca Sprezzatura (and I definitely will).

Castle of Verduno

We also owe the grape's existence to Gabriella Burlotto of Castello di Verduno, owned by another branch of the Burlotto family. In 1972, she decided to replant the Massara vineyard with Pelaverga. The winery has a total of 10 hectares – five in Verduno planted with Nebbiolo and Pelaverga, and five in Barbaresco planted with Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, and Barbera. I tasted the Castello di Verduno Basadone Pelaverga and noted the following: fragrant, roses, strawberries, currants, and a hint of white pepper.

This wine can be ordered from Enoteca Sprezzatura .

Finally, I came across another producer that I don't want to withhold from you, but at the same time I don't know or have tasted wine from: Olek Bondonio . A former snowboarding champion who now makes wines, including a pelaverga, in a minimalist way with great respect for terroir. I'm intruiged….