Writing about Provence instantly fills me with nostalgia. Ten years ago, I lived here, in Aix-en-Provence, and drank a rosé that would change my life. I feel like I've shared this story a thousand times, but it's part of it. It's part of Le Club. Sitting at my desk in my small studio, I came up with the name: Le Club des Vins (or actually Le Club du Vin, but it later turned out that name was already taken).

Now, ten years later, I'm back in the city. We're taking a mini-trip to Provence, visiting Aix-en-Provence and visiting Domaine Tempier, one of Bandol's best and most famous estates.

🎧 Don't feel like reading? Then listen to the podcast about Bandol (and JJ's holiday in Burgundy)

Who runs the world? Girls!

It was Léonie Tempier who, in 1880, after the phylloxera disaster , decided to breathe new life into her vineyard. At the time, that meant replacing all the European rootstocks with American ones. Super exciting! But at the same time, it was also the only way to make something of your vineyard. Léonie also immediately had a cellar built. Ready for the real work.

Fast forward to the next lady who played a significant role in Tempier's history: Lucie Tempier, Léonie's granddaughter. She married Lucien (no joke) Peyraud in 1936, and her father gifted the newlyweds the family estate. Together, they made a significant contribution to the region's wines. Lucien, for example, worked hard to obtain the AOC, which was awarded to Bandol in 1941.

We hear on the estate that a grand dinner is held annually after the harvest. Lucie always attended and always wanted to taste the youngest wine. " The older I am, the younger I prefer." She drank two glasses of red wine every day and lived to be 102 years old.

Today, Domaine Tempier owns 60 hectares and employs 13 people in and around the vineyard. They've always been organic, but have now succumbed to the certification. For now, they're not even remotely interested in adding the seal of approval to their (beautiful) label.

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Bandol

Bandol is an idyllic coastal town on the Côte d'Azur. The vineyards are spread across eight communes, but the majority are located north of Bandol itself. With 3,000 hours of sunshine, it's no surprise that the climate here is Mediterranean. The closer you get to the sea, the cooler it gets. We experience this firsthand as we walk through the region. At some point, the sea breeze comes your way, and it gets a bit cooler. Nighttime temperatures also drop in these areas. Higher-elevation vineyards benefit from cooler nights. And don't forget the influence of the Mistral (a strong northerly wind).

Red, white and rosé wines may be produced under the AOC Bandol designation.

Red wine

  • Between 50% and 95% Mourvèdre, supplemented with Grenache and Cinsault
  • Cépages accessories (max 20%): carignan, syrah

Rose

  • Between 20% and 95% Mourvèdre, supplemented with Grenache and Cinsault
  • Cépages accessories (max 20%): bourboulenc, carignan, clairette, syrah, and ugni blanc

White wine

  • Between 50% and 90% Clairette, supplemented with Bourboulenc and Ugni Blanc
  • Cépages accessories (max 20%): marsanne, rolle, sauvignon blanc and semillon

Tasting notes Domaine Tempier

Domaine Tempier's focus is on red. They make a classic cuvée with 75% mourvèdre and three single vineyard Wines. To celebrate Lucie Peyraud's 100th birthday, they created Pour Lulu. They also produce a white wine and a rosé. Below are the tasting notes.

Domaine Tempier Bandol Blanc 2020

The blend consists of 60% Clairette, 30% Ugni Blanc, supplemented with Rolle, Bourboulenc, and Marsanne. Domaine Tempier's white wine was always scarce, but in 2016 the estate acquired 16 hectares. We taste the last sip from the bottle. The wine has a thick edge, yet remains balanced by a juicy freshness. Spicy, typically Provence. Dill, lemon and lime zest, fresh pineapple. Can I have some bouillabaisse now?

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2020

The blend is 50% Mourvèdre, complemented by Cinsault and Grenache. We hear from the estate that they also add a drop (<3%) of Clairette. Domaine Tempier's rosé is everything you could want in a Provence rosé.

All red wines are aged for 18 months in large vats. They vary in age and size (from 10 to 50 hectoliters).

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 2018

This blend consists of 75% Mourvèdre, supplemented with Cinsault and Grenache, plus a drop of Syrah and Carignan.

Domaine Tempier Bandol La Miguoa 2018

A blend of 55% Mourvèdre, supplemented with 25% Cinsault, 15% Grenache, and 10% Syrah. La Migoua is a single vineyard of 11 hectares located at an altitude of 300 meters. Less Mourvèdre than the base grape makes La Migoua more friendly. Red fruit, earthy, and peppery.

Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine 2018 and 2012

A blend of 85% Mourvèdre, complemented by Cinsault and Grenache. La Tourtine is a single vineyard of 5.5 hectares and enjoys the sun all day, but also catches the most wind. According to the estate, La Tourtine never disappoints. Very earthy, but also: blueberries, juniper berries, and cocoa. We also tasted La Tourtine 2012, and then you can taste how the tannins are integrated. Here we find laurel, licorice, chocolate, and blackcurrant.

“It is said that mourvèdre likes to look at the sea with its feet in the water (in other words with sufficient water supplies).” - Domaine Tempier ( source )

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cabassaou 2018

This is a 92% to 94% blend with a touch of Syrah and Cinsault. It comes from a small plot at the foot of La Tourtine, sheltered from the Mistral. It's very warm there, the soil is shallow, and yields are low. This wine reveals a different facet of Mourvèdre. Super young, so very firm tannins, but what do you expect with so much Mourvèdre? Surprisingly fresh, floral, more red fruit than black fruit, earthy, peppery, and cedar.