Richard Kershaw: South African Master of Wine visits Roffa

A while back, Richard Kershaw MW visited our city via screen, narrating a video for a presentation at one of my tastings, but this time he was actually "in the flesh" at Roffa. #STARSTRUCK

On September 19th, he visited Proef at Platenburg. A visit I won't soon forget…

The Proef team had chosen a wonderful selection of Richard's wines, and the Greek chefs prepared a superb three-course menu to accompany them. But not before Richard himself had spoken at length about "his" Elgin, why almost only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are grown there, algorithms, Dijon clones, AI, rhizomes, etc., etc., etc.

Richard Kershaw MW

What a remarkable man Richard Kershaw is. You throw in a quarter and you have hours of listening pleasure (provided you're a wine nerd like me, otherwise I can easily imagine you'll lose track at some point). Richard is from England and tried to become a Master of Wine at 25, but alas...

Obtaining such a demanding degree at such a young age proved a bit much, even for a studious person like Richard. He subsequently worked at various wineries in California and Chile, among other places, and for the past 18 years, in South Africa. In 2011, Richard finally graduated with a Masters in Winery and in 2012, he was given the opportunity to start his own company: Kershaw Wines.

He is one of only 11 MWs worldwide who have mastered both the theoretical and practical aspects of winemaking and the only MW in South Africa who makes wine himself.

Elgin

About 65 km southwest of Cape Town lies the cool-climate wine region of Elgin. Separated from Stellenbosch by the Hottentots-Holland Mountains, the region is surrounded by mountains and hills, just 12 km from the coast, and at an altitude of 300 to 550 m above sea level.

Combined with the cool southerly wind, this creates a unique climate in South Africa, with cool summers (average temperature 14 degrees Celsius), abundant cloud cover, and approximately 1,300 mm of annual rainfall. This high rainfall naturally has both advantages and disadvantages. Photosynthesis occurs slowly, meaning the grapes take a long time to ripen and are sometimes not harvested until late March/early April, which is generally a major advantage, but…

Strict selection is essential, as many bunches ripen unevenly or contain rot. This can be quite expensive, so the wines must have a good ROI. That's why you'll mainly find grape varieties for which winemakers can command premium prices. This explains why most plantings consist of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. These are, of course, precisely the grape varieties needed in a cooler climate.

Grapes are by no means Elgin's most important agricultural product. Apples are. There are more than ten times as many apple trees planted as grapevines (8,000 x 750 hectares).

For Richards' wines, the cool climate in Elgin acts as a corset. The wines have enormous acidity, a taut character, and are exceptionally elegant.

Soil types & clones

As throughout South Africa, Elgin boasts a wide variety of terroirs, with varying soil types, all within very short distances. Elgin primarily features very old, weathered sandstone, which is rich in iron in some areas. These soils are poor and well-drained, which helps slow vine growth and thus produce better grapes. Richard, nerdy as he is, is crazy about Dijon clones (see below) and buys grapes from growers whose clones, along with their corresponding rootstock, are grown on which soil type.

Richard has taken measurements with 11 weather stations and has thus managed to distinguish seven different "Cru" varieties within the small Elgin vineyard, where he selects vineyards with the right vines. He uses AI to process all this knowledge into an algorithm that allows him to determine the precise actions to take.

“These days, South Africa has a true sense of place.”
- Richard Kershaw MW

Richard firmly believes that the many unique terroirs of South Africa contribute to the unique characteristics of many top South African wines today.

No vineyards of our own

Kershaw Wines doesn't own any vineyards, and Richard regularly drives halfway across Elgin (and the rest of the Western Cape) to visit the farmers he works with, ensuring he receives the best grapes from his selected plots. He then processes the grapes in two wine cellars owned by winemakers he's friends with.

Dijon clones

Each grape variety has numerous clones, each with its own unique characteristics. Some produce higher yields, others tolerate heat better, and yet others ripen earlier or later. The Dijon clones come from Burgundy, from the Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique (INRA) in Dijon, where they were selected and bred for their desirable characteristics.

Besides Burgundy, these clones are sought after in the New World for their qualities such as early ripening, high aroma extraction, and good yields. Most Dijon clones ripen early, which is ideal for cooler, high-altitude climates like Elgin.

• Pinot Noir clones such as 115, 777, and 113 are known for their good aromas, tannins, and a good ratio between flesh and skin, thus guaranteeing a beautiful, deep color.
• Chardonnay clones such as 75, 95 and 548 are sought after for their powerful flavour profile, good acidity and rich mouthfeel.

Furthermore, it's important for a grape grower to select the right rootstock for grafting the clones. Some are more drought-tolerant, while others can withstand heavy rainfall (which is certainly a necessity in Elgin). Still others produce larger yields or are more resistant to winter cold. What they all have in common is their American origins and therefore resistance to phylloxera.

Fermentation and education

Besides his knowledge of (micro)climate, clones, and rootstocks, Richard has also developed an algorithm for the fermentation and maturation of his wines. He distinguishes 21 plots, which he ferments separately and spontaneously in French oak barrels (a specific barrel from different tonneliers for each wine) that he believes best suit the wines from each plot. Every eight weeks, the barrels are tasted to determine which barrel is intended for which wine. So, there's no fixed recipe.

Kershaw Wines

Ultimately, Kershaw Wines makes a selection for three different types of wines:

• Clonal Selection : Blends from different plots and clones, but always single-varietal. Wines that showcase the true, elegant character of Elgin.
• GPS series : Wines made from grapes grown outside of Elgin, but with a real sense of place.
• Deconstructed series : A series of wines that Richard initially made for himself, to explore the influence of different plots and corresponding barrels. Only later, when his employees realized how good these wines were, did he start selling them. Always single-varietal and always from a single plot. The grape variety, clone, and soil type are clearly indicated on the label. Often, no more than one barrel per year...

Tasted

Kershaw Lower Duivenhoks River GPS Chardonnay 2020
A 100% CY95 clone, originating from the village of Vermaaklikheid, nestled in a relatively unique South African soil composed of younger limestone. Aromas of lemon tart, green mango, lime, and subtle wood. The palate was slightly creamy, yet with lovely acidity. Beautiful now, but capable of aging in the bottle for at least another ten years.

Kershaw Elgin Clonal Selection Chardonnay 2021
Made from Dijon clones CY96, CY95, CY76, and the Entav clone CY548, sourced from 11 different plots. 2021 was a cooler year, giving the wine a fresher and more elegant character. Ripe apple, custard, salty popcorn, and sweet spices. Tight acidity, minerality, beautifully balanced with a slightly creamy mouthfeel. Impressive! Buy and don't touch it for a long time...

Kershaw Elgin Clonal Selection Pinot Noir 2020
100% Pinot Grigio from the French clones PN777, PN115, and PN667, sourced from seven different plots. According to Richard, Pinot Grigio is like wearing an invisible dress. Every blemish is visible. Pinot Grigio is a variety that punishes every mistake with a vengeance. Healthy, ripe fruit and careful cellar work are therefore essential. 20% whole-bunch and 21 days of skin contact ensure good tannin structure. A slightly garnet-red color with hints of ripe strawberries, Asian 5-spice, fine acidity, and refreshing tannins. A great wine.

Kershaw Deconstructed Chardonnay Kogelberg Ironstone CY548 2020
The CY548 is also known as the "Corton clone" and produces robust, stony (aka mineral) white wines. The fruit comes from two plots, a large portion of which is always planted in the Clonal Selection. The iron-rich soil is very poor, producing small, concentrated grapes, and the taste reflects this. A rich wine style with aromas of lemon peel, ripe apple, and white peach, and a long, intense finish with richness and freshness. I would recommend keeping it for another 10 years or so.

Kershaw Deconstructed Pinot Noir Kogelberg Sandstone PN115 2020
The PN115 Pinot Noir clone naturally produces fleshy, robust wines. It results in a fragrant glass of Pinot Noir, with aromas of currants, smoked meat, and rose petals. It boasts substantial tannins, acidity, and concentration, resulting in a long finish. According to Tim Atkin, this is Richard's finest Pinot Noir.

Kershaw Deconstructed Syrah Groenveld Bokkeveld Shale SH22 2019
Besides Burgundy varieties, Richard has a predilection for wines from the Northern Rhône, specifically Syrah. This grape is difficult to ripen in Elgin and therefore hard to find. This plot, for example, has been cleared to favor apples. But what a wine! Deep in color and intense in aroma. Black olives, blackberries, smoked bacon, licorice, freshly ground pepper, and a super intense flavor. The comparison with the Northern Rhône is easily made.

Richard Kershaw's wines are available, albeit in limited editions, at Wijnkoperij Platenburg in Rotterdam.

PS: Want to get a little nerdy too? Follow Kershaw Wines on Instagram to watch Richard's "Technical Tuesday" videos, where he delves deep into the world of winemaking. #talkwinenerdytome

All photos were taken by Bram himself.