Off to the Jura: What is Vin Jaune?

Vin jaune , or 'yellow wine' if you translate it literally, comes from the Jura , the area in eastern France bordering Switzerland. The region no one talks about . The same goes for the wine.

Or maybe not? For a long time, I simply wasn't in the right circles for the Jura. Avid hikers, for example, can't stop talking about this region. So do sommeliers. Vin jaune is something else. The way it is made is special and similar to that of sherry (another wine that either your grandmother or a sommelier adores, but everyone in between finds it undrinkable).

Savagnin, the grape of vin jaune

Vin Jaune is made from Savagnin grapes, not to be confused with Sauvignon Blanc. This grape variety is primarily found in the Jura region—I've never seen it anywhere else. Savagnin has a high acidity, which is tempered in various ways in vin jaune.

First of all, the grapes remain on the vine for a long time. The best grapes come from the blue or gray marl soils on the steep, south-facing slopes. This allows the grapes to soak up the most sunshine and produce a lot of sugar. This is necessary to counteract the acidity. Since the grapes aren't harvested until October, there's a high risk of rot. In the best case, botrytis will appear. A little noble rot contributes to the complexity of vin jaune and is usually not a problem for winemakers. It does become a problem if the rot progresses to gray rot, rendering the grapes worthless.

Into the basement

After the harvest, work continues in the cellar. To soften the acidity, the wine undergoes a long aging process. This begins in stainless steel tanks. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation takes place, a process that converts the harsh malic acid into a softer lactic acid. The wine is then stored in used wooden barrels. The aging is intended for oxidation, not to impart woody aromas.

These oak barrels are not completely filled. So there's a little space left at the top. Over time, a layer of yeast forms on this surface, a kind of blanket over the wine. This is called the " voile." and is similar to the layer flor What we know from sherry . It essentially serves as a protective layer for the wine, preventing oxygen from reaching it and preventing it from spoiling. At the same time, this layer also imparts all sorts of unique aromas and flavors. Vin jaune is aged in casks for six years and three months.

Jura France Vin Jaune vineyard wine tour savagnin

Het dekentje op de vin jaune.

Because the wood breathes and the barrel isn't topped up, the winemaker loses a significant portion of the wine during aging. Nearly a third of the wine is lost. Of every liter of wine, approximately 0.62 liters remain after six years. And that just happens to be the size of the bottles in the Jura.

Anyone who follows me on Instagram knows that I recently developed a new favorite wine book: Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, among others. It describes more than 1,300 grape varieties. It also states that Savagnin is one of the "original grapes" in the history of wine. Allow me to briefly mention two facts:

How does that taste?

Savagnin is one of the parents of Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner and Trousseau.
Savagnin is one of the grandparents of Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a descendant of Sauvignon Blanc (true story).

It's bone dry with an intense nutty aroma. Pear and grapefruit peel notes. It has a creamy texture on the palate, but combined with a substantial acidity, and like sherry, vin jaune has a salty edge.

So that's something different. Different from everything else. It reminds me of sherry (Experts think so, by the way). No , but hey, those are experts.) In any case, it's a wine you have to learn to drink. I may be wrong, but this isn't a wine for beginners.

Before you grab that first bottle off the shelf and open it, be patient. Vin jaune improves with age. Wait at least ten years before opening it (or buy an older bottle). Cheers!

In 1994, a vin jaune from 1774 was tasted. It was still in perfect condition, and the tasters—24 experts—even recommended keeping it for another 100 years. If this interests you, there are still a few bottles in circulation. Check auction house Christie's .