Henri Giraud at De Kas in Amsterdam

In the heart of Champagne, amidst the chalk soils of Aÿ, you'll find the Henri Giraud Champagne House. This historic family home, rooted in four centuries of craftsmanship, I I visited for the first time a few years ago . In December, Pasteuning, the Dutch importer from Amsterdam, invited me to an unforgettable tasting of the Argonne line at Restaurant de Kas.

400 years of tradition

The Giraud family has been active in winemaking since 1625. Under the leadership of Claude Giraud, the 12th generation, the house remains true to its rich heritage while remaining progressive. The Argonne Line, the house's crowning glory, clearly demonstrates this.

The estate owns ten hectares of vineyards and also purchases grapes from select growers. The focus is on Pinot Noir. The grapes are vinified with the utmost care, with minimal addition of sulfites and natural malolactic fermentation, to preserve the purity and expression of the fruit.

Terroir: Aÿ and Argonne

What distinguishes the Argonne line is the use of oak barrels from the nearby Argonne Forest, carefully selected by cellar master Sébastian Le Golvet. He has a choice of ten different terroirs within the Argonne Forest. The trees are on average 80 to 90 years old, or even older. A portion of the proceeds goes back into the forest. Henri Giraud has since replanted 70,000 trees.

The Argonne line can be seen as a fusion of two terroirs: the chalky soil of Aÿ, which, according to the winemaker, imparts freshness and minty aromas, and the oak of Argonne, which gives the wine complexity and a unique character. The specific treatment of the oak, such as prolonged toasting at a low temperature, is adapted to the characteristics of each vintage—in other words, no two years (and therefore no two wines) are the same.

A tasting for the books

At Restaurant de Kas, we had the opportunity to taste the Argonne 2012, 2014, and 2015, each with its own distinct characteristics. The 2012 stands out for its vibrancy and complex aromas of bread, brioche, chalk, and a salty touch. The 2014, a fresher vintage, reveals beautiful notes of macadamia and almond after some time. The 2015, fuller due to the warmer year, seduces with fruity and floral notes, finished with a hint of salted butterscotch. It's a dream to taste multiple vintages side by side.

As if that wasn't enough, there was also a Jérobaum Fût de Chêne MV10 open at the tasting. Truly incredible, with aromas of flint, fireworks, and toasted hazelnuts.

Henri Giraud is available at Past support in Amsterdam. Also try the Henri Giraud Esprit Nature Brut , one of my favourite NV champagnes and very affordable.